Like nose-to-tail butchery, whole vegetable cooking is a beast of its own. While many people are becoming more in tune with where their food comes from, they still feel stumped beyond the conventional uses for their vegetables. Kitchen scraps seem solely relegated to soup stock, as if they’re no good. But every part of the plant, even the so-called scraps, imparts a different flavor and texture to a dish. By learning about the often underutilized parts of plants, like the green tops of leeks or the yellow buds on kale, you’ll open yourself to a whole new range of vegetables.
Even if you don’t “do” the grill with all of its heavy, smoky meats, you can still grill up a healthy burger (and I’m talking size here, not just nutrition) at a barbecue, and the meat lovers in the group won’t miss the ground beef at all. It’s hefty—piled high with marinated portobellos, peaches, and bell peppers, and stacked between two ciabatta buns with a bed of baby greens and a slice of fresh mozzarella. It’s equal parts sweet and savory, and you’ll get all the satisfaction of biting into a burger with juices dripping down your chin. A stack alone makes a plentiful meal, but pair it with the Oven-Baked Potato Parmesan Fries (page 146) and a cold beer, and you have all the makings of a swell summer weekend.
A broccoli salad is likely not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of a fresh, flavorful, senses-tingling salad. But a roasted broccoli salad, on the other hand, has all these traits and then some. Infused with garlic-and-rosemary oil and tossed with wilted leeks and arugula, it ’s the kind of salad that stands out on its own, not as just another starter or side dish. Crumbled blue cheese adds a touch of saltiness and creaminess to this tangy and savory salad, which is best served warm as it melts on the palate.
Weeks before the first fava beans appear in the garden or at the farmers’ market, there’s a surer sign of spring: fava greens. Many people overlook the silvery-green foliage in favor of the pods, but they’re every bit as edible as the beans you’re most familiar with. Fava greens are a great way to get that fresh fava flavor without all the work of shelling the beans. They’re light, tender, succulent, and embody all the earthiness of spring . If you’re lucky enough to grow your own fava plants at home, or you come across the greens at your local farmstand, gather a few handfuls for this bright and zesty salad.
San Franciscans may find this stew somewhat reminiscent of their beloved cioppino, a seafood stew that originated in the “City by the Bay” in the late 1800s . Italian immigrants concocted this dish with leftovers from the day’s catch, and over many generations, San Francisco chefs elevated this once-peasantly meal into a luxurious showcase of fish and shellfish. I like to keep my own stew simple. The seafood tends to change, depending on what I find from the fishmonger (and oftentimes I’ll mix the fish), though the base always remains the same: a savory tomato broth spiked with sweet fennel and heady herbs.
At first sight, kohlrabi can seem like an intimidating thing. The orb is often green and pale but also comes in a shocking purple, and its tentacle-like stems are reminiscent of Sputnik 1. But underneath that slightly rubbery and sometimes knobby exterior is a smooth, white, and firm flesh that turns tender-crisp in a hot oven, cooking up like a lighter version of potato fries. They have every bit of the satisfying munch of a spud, but leave you with none of the heaviness in your belly.
Most recipes tell you to use the white parts of the leeks and to discard the green parts, and over time, this has led people to believe the green parts are inedible. Their leathery appearance suggests they might be tough and fibrous, but underneath the sometimes dirty leaves and wilted ends are the tender tops I consider a high point of leeks, literally and figuratively. A simple sauté with wild mushrooms and a simmer in white wine brings out the characteristic sweetness of leeks, turning them soft and fragrant.
As you might have guessed from my Down-Home Collard Greens (page 72), I always love me a big heaping pile of greens. These ones are a bit more gourmet (or as I like to call it, gour-mette) though, as the greens are splashed with a pomegranate gastrique before serving. A gastrique is simply a sauce made from a reduction of vinegar and sugar—and in this case, pomegranate juice is added for a bold, forward flavor. It takes only minutes to make, but gives fancy flair to a down-home skillet. The balance of sweet, salty, and spicy in this dish will have all your taste buds high-fiving each other.
Homemade pizza on a weeknight? Without all the kneading, the resting, the rising, and the resting again? Yes, it’s possible. This same-day pizza dough nearly changed my life! Now I don’t even need to think about making pizza dough a day ahead of time. I can just mix it up when I get that craving, and it’s ready by the time the toppings are ready. It yields a no -fuss crust that’s chewy and soft and lends itself to lots of variations if you want more flavor (add Italian seasonings to the dough), more crispness (use a pizza stone to bake), or more meal options (try it for breadsticks and calzones, too).
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