Like curry rice and tonkatsu, this macaroni salad is an example of yoshoku cuisine: a Western-influenced style of Japanese cooking. This salad typically is made with Kewpie—a custardy, yolk-rich Japanese mayonnaise with vinegar. The salad is a delicious side to grilled soy-seasoned meats and poultry. Serve it sprinkled with shichimi togarashi, a Japanese seven-spice blend, or furikake, a sesame seed and seaweed condiment.
This comforting soup, based on Mexican sopa de pollo con fideos, consists of toasted noodles in a tomatoey broth, enhanced by tender chicken and quick-charred garlic, jalapeño and onion. In place of fideos—the short skinny wheat-based pasta traditionally used in the dish—we substitute easier-to-find capellini or vermicelli, broken into bite-size pieces. The noodles are lightly browned, contributing toasty flavor and depth to the broth. We top each bowl with onion and cilantro for freshness and crunch, but sliced avocado or a dollop of sour cream would be delicious, too.
The origin of Peruvian pesto with pasta, or tallarines verdes (“green noodles” translated from Spanish), dates to the 19th century, when a wave of Italian immigrants settled in Peru. A shocking amount of spinach replaces the basil, and crumbled queso fresco supplements (and sometimes entirely replaces) salty parmesan cheese. Two types of alliums—onion and garlic—are blended into the pesto, then a quick simmer in the same pot used to boil the pasta softens their fiery edge. Another difference from Italian pesto is the addition of dairy, commonly evaporated milk, though we prefer the cleaner, sweeter flavor of heavy cream.
This pasta dish is modeled on the spaghetti al pesto di limone that Giovanna Aceto made for us on her family's farm in Amalfi, Italy. The lemons commonly available in the U.S. are more acidic than Amalfi's lemons, so to make a lemon pesto that approximates the original, we use a little sugar to temper the flavor. For extra citrus complexity, we add lemon zest to the pasta cooking water; the oils from the zest lightly perfume the spaghetti, reinforcing the lemony notes of the pesto.
Niu rou mian, or beef noodle soup, is one of Taiwan's signature dishes. Chuang Pao-hua, founder of the Chung-Hua Culinary Teaching Center in Taipei, taught us how to make the hearty meal in a bowl the slow, traditional way. Our much-simplified version uses fragrant star anise and Sichuan peppercorns to flavor the soup, along with toban djan, a spicy, fermented chili-bean paste. Chinese wheat noodles of any thickness worked well, as did Japanese udon and long, thin pastas such as spaghetti.
The southern Vietnamese dish called bún thịt nướng combines bouncy, flavor-absorbing rice noodles with fresh vegetables, grilled marinated pork, herbs, peanuts and other garnishes. Individual bowls are served with a savory-sweet sauce called nước chấm on the side. Ours is a simplified version, and one that broils the pork in lieu of grilling it. To create thin, even slices of the meat, freeze the pork, uncovered, until firm to the touch but not frozen solid, about 20 minutes, then slice.
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