I can get a raw chicken from fridge to table in under thirty minutes by taking advantage of a skillet on the stovetop to start. Then I resort to a rarely, if ever, used part of the oven—the floor. In most ovens, the heat comes from a burner or heating element underneath a metal sheet on the bottom of the oven. The oven bottom acts as a diffuser and functions as a burner underneath the skillet, allowing the skin to continue to crisp while the ambient air temperature of the oven roasts the bird. The only part of the bird that ever needs to touch the pan is the skin side. The skin acts as a barrier between the tender, moist flesh and the hot cast-iron pan. Me, I'm not too fussy about how the interior of my oven looks, but be forewarned that over time this foolproof technique might scuff the oven floor a little.
I remove the backbone as well as the ribs and breastbone before cooking the chicken. This speeds the cooking and makes it easier to slice the breast meat. You can make the chicken without doing this, but it will take longer. Deboning the breast gets the best and quickest results. If you don’t know how, ask the butcher to do it for you (supermarkets are often happy to oblige).
Failing that, you can butterfly the chicken at home (this is also known as a spatchcocked chicken). To do it yourself, remove the backbone by cutting down along both sides of it with a pair of kitchen shears (don’t worry about the ribs and breastbone). After removing the backbone, lay the chicken skin side down on a cutting board and press down hard to flatten it.
PREP THE CHICKEN
Salting the chicken in advance ensures that the seasoning is evenly distributed throughout the meat. This method results in meat with salt in it rather than on it.
Put the bird in a large metal bowl, sprinkle the salt evenly all over it, and rub the chicken around the inside of the bowl until all the salt adheres.
Note: Food geeks like me with a gram scale will find that a 2½-pound chicken, after deboning, weighs 1,134 grams. Depending on your taste for salt, you’ll need between 1.1% and 1.4% of the chicken’s weight in salt (12.5 to 15.8 grams).
Let the salted chicken rest in the fridge for at least 2 hours before cooking; the chicken is good to go for at least 24 hours after salting.
DRY THE CHICKEN AND HEAT THE OVEN
About ½ hour before roasting the chicken, turn the oven to 475°F and let it heat up (this may take a while). You want it plenty hot in there. Meanwhile, take the chicken from the fridge and pat dry with paper towels. Set aside.
COOK THE CHICKEN
Oil a large heavy-bottomed skillet; cast iron is my favorite. (If your skillet won’t accommodate the whole chicken, split it into 2 halves and use 2 skillets.) You want a thick coating of oil (more than a slick, less than a puddle). Place the pan over a high heat on the stovetop until you see the faintest wisp of smoke rising from the oil. Gently—really gently, so the oil doesn’t splatter and burn you—lay the chicken in the pan skin side down. Lower the heat to medium-high and cook until the skin turns faintly blond, about 3 minutes.
Transfer the skillet to the floor of the oven.
Depending on the size of the bird and whether it is deboned or just butterflied, the total cooking time in the oven will range from 18 to 30 minutes. The chicken is done when the temperature in the thickest part of the thigh registers 155°F to 160°F on an instant-read thermometer.
When the chicken is done, cut it into manageable pieces and serve as is, or with a squeeze or two of lemon.
DONENESS
People get a little nutty when it comes to chicken and doneness. We give timing guidelines in this recipe, but it could be more or less, depending on the weight of the chicken, the type of pan you use, the heat in your oven, the fickle kitchen gods, and whether your soul is pure.
My test is to insert a skewer or cake tester into the thickest part of the thigh and check for clear juices to seep out—that means it’s cooked through; the skewer should also feel quite hot to your lip. But the skewer test takes some getting used to, and you have to cook a lot of chickens before it becomes second nature. Or, you can just use an instant-read thermometer.
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